Water Purification Basics:Part Four

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Your Longest Day Is Now Begun!

Copyright

By

Dr. Charles S. Brocato

2011

As you can see from Parts I, II, and III, water is a big topic. It should not be treated lightly! There is more to it than just filtering it. What you have been reading is not given, due to either lack of knowledge by the participants or due to lack of time in preparedness symposiums.

We closed our discussion of Part III, with the following, and we start Part IV from there.

In the meantime, you want to garner all that has been given in regard to water: Print out the documents; study the documents with red marking pin; make marginal notes for recall on certain pertinent items for self; go through in your mind how you will begin to process raw water into potable water.

Then, pantomime the procedure in your mind at various times in a day. You do not want to (if you can find the material) search out these documents and study them then and attempt to process raw or sea water into clean drinking water when you need it most, as will happen, possibly in the twinkling of an eye. After this, do a practice drill. It will run smoothly for you and there will be little to no hitches.

Because of the enormous number of emails received, concerning this Water Series, we will give more and repeat some of Parts I, II, and III in Part IV, now being presented.

Please pay particular attention to additional modalities in Part III for Coagulation/Flocculation. Put these measures into practice from all Parts when you study them and combine them into Part IV, this you are now reading. It is simple and easy. Also, keep in mind as you read through this last part, you must pre-test and post-test, using the products given earlier, in The Kong Reports of very recent presentation within the past two months.

We have paid particular attention to see that you get these Emails of The Kong Reports of the past two months by including them in this document concerning Water.

Therefore, if you are serious about having potable water; that is, pure, clean, drinkable water, then read this document through to the end and keep in mind that you want to be aware that "Hungry Eyes" will be watching you as you begin your survival!

They will want what you have because they did not take the time or the effort to do what you are doing now and what you have done for this terrible time immediately ahead.

The Emails we are referencing are those particular ones concerning themselves with water and some items to facilitate BackGround Organic Matter, plus other particulate matter, removal.

BON APPÉTIT With Clean, Clear, Drinkable Water!

Using Your Presto 6-Quart Pressure Cooker

As

A Distillation Unit

Caution: Do not totally lock, fully close, the lid (cover) in place. Leave the gasket on lid; lock the pressure cooker lid just barely to hold it in place onto the pressure cooker body. See pages 4, 6 of your manual. It is not locked but just a fraction of an inch. The handles are not parallel to each other, as when locked. The top handle is moved just 1/8 of an inch to the bottom handle, when you feel a slight resistance. This keeps the lid from vibrating off, and at the same time allows the lid to ventilate removing the Volatile Organic Chemicals/Compounds from the boiling water.

Practice, and do not lock the lid in place. This allows you to raise the lid without getting a 'blow-back' of super-heated steam and water onto your person. You can periodically check the water level by raising the lid farthest from you up, and the lid portion closest to you remains down; then if you did have the lid locked too much, superheated steam moves away from you.

To understand this procedure best, you should have been cooking with your pressure cooker for months by now and following the instructions, every time as given in the manual after cooling and no pressure is still in the pressure cooker.

Remember! Always lift the cover area farthest from you up at an angle such that it is tilted up with the remaining cover still in contact with the pressure cooker body. See page 11 of your Presto 6-quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker manual. If the cover is stuck, you have either locked it in place and/or there is too much internal pressure still available. Let it cool!

When thoroughly cool, and no more pressure evident, remove lid (cover) as given above.

Reprinted With Permission From Drs. Brocato & King's Latest Book:

Chemical/Biological WarFare

How You Can Survive

Fourth Edition

A New Danger

A new crisis has now developed with our water that you are not being told about. Many people across the nation, where I am invited to give lectures about what's coming and how to survive, tell me they have developed cisterns for collecting, storing, and using their rain water supply. At one time, rain water was relatively pure, depending on how you caught and stored it. This is no longer the case.

Even if this rain water is distilled, you still have a problem with it. This information also goes for mountain streams, creeks, and so forth. According to Swiss chemist, Stephen Muller, at the General Institute for Environmental Science and Technology, much rain water is contaminated today with pesticides from crops. Be Advised.

The mechanics happen this way: organic chemicals, common in pesticides, such as alachlor, atrazine, 2,4–dinitrophenol, and the herbicide glyphosate, after being sprayed over the farming community (even popular weed killers such as Roundup®, Eazy Weeder®, and Slam®, that non–farmers use throughout America) are volatile (vaporize) to the air, combining with water vapor in the clouds to rain down miles away. If a rain occurs just shortly after crop spraying, then that which falls in the immediate vicinity is extremely concentrated with pesticides and herbicides.

Thus, freshly fallen rain, if used as drinking water, could set you up for various diseases. Even if you drink the tap water, these pesticides and herbicides are now reaching the ground water, not to mention the rivers, lakes, etc. Oh…they're also reaching your swimming pools!

At a time you need problems less, you may inadvertently be setting yourself up for, according to European Research, non–Hodgkin's lymphoma, a very rapidly increasing cancer in Western societies. Also, according to the latest research, much bottled water is actually tap water that may not have been filtered as you would expect. In fact, a recent survey by the FDA states that 31% of the 52 brands they tested had traces of bacteria in them.

To further the problem, manufacturers often use a cheap plastic for their bottles, such that methyl chloride and xenoestrogens (carcinogens that cause fertility problems and initiate reproductive tissue cancer) and other toxins are leached out, and you drink these, too.

The Swedish scientists discovered that Europeans and Americans who developed this cancer were more likely to have been exposed to the glyphosate herbicide. Other researchers point out that this herbicide and other well used pesticides inhibit the immune system and bring about initiation for the formation of cancer. The glyphosate herbicide is in our drinking water and rain water.

Distillation:

With what you have just been given, then if you distill your water, from whatever sources…and we feel you should be able to when things get really bad, you will remove only 99% of the impurities. That leaves only 1% impurities, so your water is 99% pure. Thus, you want to distill your water by whatever means, but make sure you have a separate unit to filter out the 1%. Because, even if you distill, remember, this is just like a vaporization, and you are going to get the "pesticides"—small as it is, in the distillate—that which you drink, unless that unit has a ventilating system, or one that you devise.

A good distillation system will remove all kinds of bacteria, pathogens, parasites, viruses, as well as herbicides, pesticides, organic and inorganic chemicals, along with heavy metals (arsenic, lead, etc.), and copper and rust too, which may have been dissolved in the water and are too heavy to rise with the steam formed during the boiling process. All this stays behind in the boiling tank, and the boiling kills most pathogenic organisms (less effective with endospores). Many organic chemicals can boil over to the distillate when they volatilize (convert) to a gas, combining with the water vapor during the boiling process, and then, condensing back into dissolved chemicals in the water to give the distillate. For this, you want a vented distillation system, and since the ones we have found use electricity, you will have to aerate using Method A or Method B below. You could boil your water for 1 minute in an open kettle to vaporize chlorine byproducts (ventilation), such as trihalomethanes, or any other dissolved volatile organic chemicals discussed above, and kill Cryptosporidium and other parasites; then distill (a longer boiling process) to kill other microorganisms, and remove the water from what's left in the boiling tank, followed by activated carbon filtration.

This is why you want a water distillation unit fitted with a carbon filter and a venting system to remove volatile organic chemicals (VOCs)…and since we have not found any distillation units, fitted as such (E Still has a small carbon rod), that work without electricity—something we may not have for a while, or sporadically, if terrorists hit our infrastructure's water, electric and sewage treatment plants, then we suggest taking the distillate and filtering through a water filter pitcher or counter top units, such as the Brita® or Pur® to, hopefully, remove a portion of volatilized or boiled over gases. This is done after using the aeration methods given later (or boiling for 1 minute in an open container), then distilling the raw water, and filtering the distillate. You may want to do one boiling, the distillation process, if fuel is scarce.

Look for ANSI/NSF Standards (American National Standards Institute/National Sanitation Foundation) on Brita® or Pur® filters and filter replacements. The NSF International is a non–profit independent testing organization. Standard 42 refers to "aesthetic effects," and refers to reducing certain substances, including zinc and sulfate, that affect the color, odor, and water taste—the organoleptic qualities of water. Standard 53 covers "health effects." This includes reducing volatile organic chemicals (VOCs), herbicides, pesticides, trihalomethanes, and lead, cloudiness or turbidity and other substances that contaminate your drinking water. Be aware that these filters may not be certified to remove all the contaminating items listed under Standard 42/53.

The units are not designed to be used with impure water. Pur® writes "Do not use with water that is microbiologically unsafe or of unknown quality without adequate disinfection before or after the system."

When distilling, most to all organic chemical particulates, pesticides, herbicides, etc., should have been ventilated if they are volatile (or aerated off earlier—if you did not use sloppy technique) and "sludge" elements left behind in the boiling tank of the distillation unit. When the steam has condensed back into water—it is this water you pass through an activated charcoal filter or a water filtration pitcher for the final treatment. Tests show granular activated carbon (GAC) removal of fair to excellent, and powdered activated carbon (PAC), what is mostly found in most commercial water filter pitcher units, variable in the range of poor to excellent, for organic material removal. This is why we suggest a pre–treatment modality (follows below) for obtaining pure, clean, drinking (potable) water. When the going really gets rough, we also suggest you devise your own GAC filter.

We have not found any vented designs for distillation units not requiring electricity. A vented design purges volatile organics instead of concentrating them in the distillate, for example, chloroform, that is formed eventually from chlorine that is a disinfectant for water purification systems. Chloroform is one of the trihalomethanes (THMs) found in water so treated.

We will show you a pre–treatment modality or manner that will remove just about all, or reduce to acceptable levels, any substances prior to your distillation thereby enhancing the distillation process for pure, clean water. The modalities that follow later consist of Aeration, Coagulation (flocculation), Sedimentation, and Filtration with activated charcoal. The latter removes, among other things, contaminations caused by any stainless steel distillation units. Charcoal does not remove the gasoline additive, MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether); vented distillation appears to do so. We sat our water tank for the E Still slightly askew for venting. It appears to work fine with GAC.

Activated Charcoal:

"Charcoal is a substance in which the surface atoms are an appreciable fraction of the total number. It consists of porous carbon having a net work of fine tunnels extending through the specimen." Activated charcoal is very spongy, and as such, it has a high ratio of surface area to weight. With such a large surface area, carbon atoms have a large unsaturated valence area too, to attract substances.

"They can attract molecules, especially polar molecules, thus accounting for the high adsorption that is characteristic of charcoal." Adsorption is the process whereby there is an adherence of atoms, ions, or molecules of a gas or liquid to the surface of another substance. For example, "When a mixture of hydrogen sulfide, H2S, and oxygen is passed over a charcoal surface, the H2S is selectively adsorbed. Because H2S is a polar molecule with the sulfur end more negative than the hydrogen end, it is more strongly adsorbed than the oxygen molecule, which is symmetric and nonpolar."

"The charcoal gas mask makes use of this principle of selective adsorption. The charcoal selectively adsorbs poisonous gases, which are usually complicated polar molecules, and lets the oxygen through for respiration."

"At higher temperatures molecular motion makes adsorption more difficult. Thus, spent charcoal with its surface completely covered may be reactivated"—Notice the word, reactivated!—"by heating it up to drive off the adsorbed gases. At low temperatures, where molecular motion is slight, adsorption increases. In fact, at very low temperatures selectivity is less pronounced, and even nonpolar molecules may be adsorbed, presumably because of van der Waals attraction." —Sources: Chemical Principles and Properties, Second Edition; Sienko and Plane, McGraw Hill, p. 253, 1974. Reviewing Chemistry; Gelender Amesco; and, The Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Tenth Edition, Revised by G.G. Hawley.

Wood Charcoal/Ashes Are Not Activated Charcoal:

Burning wood gives you wood ashes—not activated charcoal. Many are unaware of this and assume they are both the same; they're not! By using the former (wood ashes and chunks of burned wood, known as "charcoal" to the unwary), you are taking a great risk.

You will not get charcoal or activated charcoal with an increased adsorptive (attracts and holds on its surface) area. Destructive distillation of wood gives wood alcohol, acetone, acetic acid, and charcoal (wood charcoal). Activated charcoal is charcoal that has been fashioned (see below), such that its surface area has been increased—it has been activated. By heating with steam, the surface area has been increased (adsorptive) to 125 acres per pound! This type of charcoal (activated) can be recycled by boiling, heating in steam, or burning off any impurities. Adsorption is not absorption—a quality of being assimilated; incorporation.

Therefore, you can recycle your charcoal gas mask canisters if you can get them apart, after pouring Clorox, etc. through them and boiling the GAC or PAC, drying prior to reuse. But this could involve outgassing and so forth discussed earlier. We suggested the Israeli gas mask and extra canisters to avoid any problems. From the information we are uncovering, you should be able to boil the canisters out; or, try taking them apart and replacing the activated charcoal. But be warned! The outgassing principle will work against you when you start to reactivate them. Best to discard them after first neutralizing the canisters by pouring Clorox or NaOH (Lye—caustic soda) through the canister. After saturating with either of these chemicals, you should be able to then boil out the neutralized adsorbed neural agents and reuse. Or, if you prefer, replace with virgin carbon.

Wood Charcoal is wood that has been burned in the absence of air or oxygen (destructive distillation of wood). The highly carbonaceous material, wood in this case, is subjected to high temperature, in the absence of air, resulting in decomposition to solids, liquids, and gases. Its adsorptive powers are variable at most. It comes in technical grade, lumps; powdered, and in briquettes (charcoal). Use Activated Charcoal. Remington's Pharmaceutical Sciences; 16th Edition, 1980, The Philadelphia College of Pharmacy and Science, says on page 752:

"Charcoal (wood) made by this process was variable in its adsorptive powers, frequently being entirely devoid of such properties. It was found that the adsorptive powers of charcoal could be tremendously increased by treating it with various substances such as steam, air, carbon dioxide, oxygen, zinc chloride, sulfuric acid, or phosphoric acid, or a combination of some of these substances, at temperatures [Underscoring Authors'; also, other texts say similar] ranging from 500 degrees to 900 degrees.

"This treatment is referred to as activation, the activating agent presumably removing substances previously adsorbed on the charcoal and, in some instances at least, breaking down the granules of carbon into smaller ones having a greater total surface area. It has been estimated that 1 ml of charcoal, finely divided, possesses a total surface of approximately 1000 meters square."

Sooo…what does this mean to you? It means you need to get a water distillation unit and an activated charcoal (carbon) filter unit. You can use straight activated charcoal, the kind you buy at pet shops; set it up into some sort of filter unit for the distillate (water that has been distilled); or, simply get a water filtration unit from your local drug store, supermarket, etc., for use after you have distilled your swimming pool water, swamp water, sea and any other kind of water—even, oh yes, urine, if it comes down to that, as it happened during WWII.

The units already have a carbon (activated charcoal) unit that comes with the water pitcher units. The thing is: You have to keep buying the carbon filters. What you're not told, as you can surmise from the above, is that you can boil or steam them for 5 minutes or so and reactivate the carbon elements—some more expensive units allow you to do this. If not, replace with virgin carbon.

However, there is some concern here. Because the temperatures for this second reactivation do not reach the 500 to 900 degrees C that some technical material calls for. But, High Capacity Water Filter (see below) with a carbon filter says its filters can be recharged by this method—boiling them for 5 minutes in water to evaporate chlorine used in chlorine treated water. We suggest the water be filtered through fresh carbon rods (replacement filters).

Nevertheless, if you (a) boil out your filters, then you could try backflushing first. But, since the incoming port to the filter screen is so small, compared to the outport screen, you may not be able to backflush the refuse (contaminates) out sufficiently, by forcing clean water from the outport screen through the import screen. Then, pour (b) hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) through the outport screen until the filter is saturated. Let rest for 15 to 20 minutes to kill microorganisms; then boil for 10 minutes. We did our Brita® as such and it did not melt, and it works beautifully. If this does not work for you, after testing your spent filter, then replace the filtering unit(s) if you stored enough; or, make your own (see below) using Activated Carbon (charcoal).

Furthermore, Pur® says their filters can be used in Brita® water filtration pitcher units. We have found this not to be so. Upon testing for chlorine in filtered water, after replacing a Brita® filter with a Pur®, we discovered chlorine levels to be almost equal to unfiltered water. We suspect the fit was not what it should have been. Nevertheless, the chlorine levels were unacceptable to us. We used various tests given later. In the end, we boiled out our used Brita® and returned it to use and tested it. Chlorine levels tested non–existent, again, using the various tests given in this book.

And that is the thing you most definitely want to do—boil them out—though, it will be good to store a number of the carbon elements, you can't store that many, and they get expensive. If, after testing (discussed later), the activated charcoal, often powdered in the units, doesn't reactivate, you have to discard and use a virgin unit. Or, if you can, open up the unit and change out the powdered activated charcoal, and replace with either powdered or Granular Activated Carbon (charcoal), GAC. Some units have an ion exchange resin that you probably can't boil out and must change.

Hopefully, different manufacturers haven't made replacement filters whereby the units melt in boiling water, or they have thought of this and took this into consideration in its manufacture, such that you have to continually buy new filters. Other elements in the filter could be damaged—but that is not the point! You're after the activated charcoal without having to fool with charcoal powder, a bucket with holes in it, etc., into ad infinitum, because the distillation process has taken care of the other contaminates.

So, get a water filter pitcher unit, such as the Brita® and/or Pur® found at Walgreens, and elsewhere. These units eliminate 99% of lead and other contaminates; however, be sure and check the labels and instructions to see what they purport to remove. The distillation, combined with this type of unit should give the most desirable results. Our choice: use new filters until you can't anymore.

These cheaper units may not remove arsenic, lead, copper, parasites, sodium (more expensive ones remove some sodium), sulfates, nitrates, chlorine, and fluoride. Normally, however, chlorine and fluoride are removed and thus, these units are effective in removing the odor of chlorine. But with fluoride, you can't smell or taste it.

Water Test Kits:

•	Swimming Pool Test Kit: We suggest you get a home swimming pool test kit for chlorine and pH for around $5.00. This will give you a ball park figure for any excess chlorine coming over if you plan to chlorinate your water first—we plan to use iodine (see iodine crystals above)—when tap water is suspicious, or when using any other source of water, and the water is still to be distilled. (We wish to be doubly safe!) However, the distilling process itself should take care of all germs, viruses, and so forth. This is especially so in the case of using ditch, swamp, and other waters.

Take into consideration this too: Your everyday, inexpensive water filtration pitcher units are not designed to clean ditch water and swimming pool water for drinking and so forth. They are to be used only with recognized clean tap water. This means, if you are suspicious of the water, purify it FIRST, using chlorine or iodine (preferably the iodine for reasons given above); then filter it through your water filtration pitcher. More expensive units allow you to filter even ditch water. We suggest you still purify it first; but before that, as in all purification processes, remove as much debris as possible with a cloth, and then use your more expensive gravity filtration pitcher unit. Better yet, get an E Still and distill after removing debris and purifying with iodine or chlorine.

Also, start on distilled water or stored water several days in advance of an attack, if a warning is given. If nothing suspicious is happening around you, you're not out of anything—namely, your health. One researcher says municipalities may not tell you that too much fluoride or chlorine has been or was dumped into the water. Stay alert and look for signs of people getting sick from the drinking water—especially gastrointestinal problems.

I think you now see why we still prefer the better distillation units that need no electricity, only a heat source. We still recommend several inexpensive units for the carbon filter reasons and also, one good, expensive gravity unit, such as the AquaRain® unit from Nitro Pak. Call 800–866–4876.

If you are using tap water, and something occurs, then you want to be sure you have some means of testing it to ascertain if there is any chlorine present. It appears the bigger problem will be "under" purification, and not over.

•	Reagent Strips for Urinalysis: If you have some extra lying around, then you can test for "nitrites." This may help determine if raw sewage, bacteria, and nitrogenous fertilizers have contaminated your drinking water. Because, nitrites and "nitrates" are an indication for bacterial presence; but, most bacteria in water are not harmful. Bacteria convert protein into ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

•	Our Good Test: "Inexpensive and easy, but limited coverage. Everything you need to analyze your water at home is included. You don't need to send anything away to a lab. Test for Ph [sp], hardness, alkalinity, iron bacteria, hydrogen sulfide." Order #12–228. Call Lehman's at 1–330–857–5757. Comment: This is a one–time test.

•	Water Test Kit: "Perform four important experiments about water pollution. Test water samples for dissolved oxygen content,

chlorides, phosphates (a test for fertilizers; phosphates can also be there from your home water treatment system, if you have one, to remove excess iron), and water hardness. All tests provide professional results. Includes all necessary apparatus and materials." Order #X81–578. Call Edmund Scientific's; 1–800–728–6999:

The information booklet with the tests, on page 12, from GSC

International, Inc., Manufacturer and supplier of Scientific, Educational and Laboratory Products, Student Test Kit, #2000–29, says:

"Nitrates are a large pollution problem. They are introduced into the water system from natural and man–made sources. The natural sources are dead plants and animals that decay.

"The bacteria which causes decay break down chemicals, specifically proteins, into ammonia which is eventually changed by other groups of bacteria into nitrates. This process of decay takes place in the water. It is part of the cycle of life. It means that chemicals can be reused to provide nutrients (food) for other living things. For example, plants (simple ones, such as algae, as well as more complicated ones such as trees) need nitrates in order to survive.

"A second source of nitrates is sewage (human and animal wastes). When the sewage decays, nitrates are one of the products.

"This type of pollution definitely makes the water undrinkable and unattractive due to the presence and the smell of decaying materials. It encourages the growth of several kinds of bacteria.

"Nitrates in the water can make the water unsafe for another reason. Young children (less than one year of age) can be poisoned by nitrates (Authors' observation: Nitrates and nitrates are used as food preservatives, with no warning given for infants).

"The United States Public Health Service recommends that water with more than 45 ppm of nitrates should not be given to children because nitrate poisoning causes a condition similar to suffocation.

"Small children change nitrate to nitrite. The nitrite then reacts with the hemoglobin (the substance in our blood which carries oxygen). After this reaction, the hemoglobin cannot carry oxygen. The nitrate to nitrite reaction only takes place in very young children." The condition, methemoglobinemia (MHB), is known as blue baby. Recent researchers believe MHB may be the result of other bacteria present in nitrate containing well water given to the infants who develop the condition.

Still another source is pesticides from the agricultural industry, as well as the corn and soybean crops grown in the Midwest Corn Belt themselves. The crops and pesticides generate nitrates and other nutrients, which find their way to the water table and from there to rivers, streams, gulfs, "seas" and oceans. In the Gulf of Mexico, during hot weather, nitrate effluent creates "dead zones," the size of New Jersey, where fish can suffocate. The nitrates act as fertilizer to algae cysts on the ocean bottom, which "explode" into bloom. These algal "blooms" can be so thick, they shade out seaweed. Then, when the algae and seaweed die, certain types of bacteria and other organisms use up available oxygen to consume all this dead plant material. Without oxygen, fish swimming through the zone suffocate, thus the name, "dead zone."

Water wells are also corrupted by nitrates in pollution–laden runoff soaking into the ground water in rural areas. These excess nitrates may affect infants, leading to blue baby syndrome, where babies suffocate.

This is another reason why you want to know how to purify your water, because of the ready solubility of nitrates, which leaches into ground water. Nitrates in excess may be converted into nitrites by the anaerobic environment of the intestines by bacteria present. Nitrite that is absorbed into the bloodstream combines with the hemoglobin, forming methemoglobin. This can cause morbidity and death. Because of this, drinking water regulations require nitrate levels to be less than 10 mg/liter.

•	How Clean Is The Water: "Conduct experiments about the chemicals and organisms that pollute our water and how our water can be purified. With this kit, you will be able to test the level of bacteria in water, the chloride content, the PH level, and the rate at which particles settle in water." Order #X81–577. Edmund Scientific's; 1–800–728–6999.

•	Waterworks Test Strips: Rapid and accurate test results, from tap water, lakes and streams. Test a wide range of chemicals and metals. No reagents to mix or handle, nothing to add. Simply dip and read for accurate analysis of even low concentrations. H365330: Free Chlorine, 50/Pk. H365335: Iron (Fe+2 Fe+3), 50/Pk. H365336: Nitrate and Nitrite Nitrogen; 50/Pk. All have a wide detection range. The Lab Mart®. J. & H. Berge, Inc. Serving Science since 1850. 1–800–684–1234. Highly recommended by the authors.

•	pH~Fix Indicators Sticks: H365580PH–FIX. Range 0.0–14. Graduation; 100/Pk. The Lab Mart®. J. & H. Berge, Inc. Serving Science since 1850. 1–800–684–1234. Highly recommended by the authors.

Tortora, Funke, and Case, writing in their textbook, Microbiology Fifth Edition, say:

Water Purity Test:

"Historically, most of our concern about water purity has been related to the transmission of disease. Therefore, tests have been developed to determine the safety of water; many of these tests are also applicable to foods."

The authors point out that if we simply test for pathogenic microorganisms in the water, by the time we find them, it's already too late—an epidemic of illness is underway. For this reason, we test instead for several indicator organisms, which tell us that pathogenic organisms may be present or will soon be present if conditions aren't corrected.

A good indicator organism shares three characteristics. (1) It is always present in human feces, which means that when you find this organism in water, you know instantly that sewage is getting into the water supply. (2) The indicator organism generally lives as long in water as pathogens. (3) The indicator organism is simple and inexpensive to test for, and the tests can be run by someone without extensive training in microbiology.

Water experts in the United States have settled on the coliform bacteria as indicator organisms, particularly E. coli, which is a major constituent of human colonic flora. E. coli nearly always produces the enzyme, B-glucuronidase, a characteristic which scientists took advantage of in order to create simple tests for coliform bacteria, E. coli in particular. If E. coli is placed on a media containing the chemical substrates, o–nitrophenyl–B–D–galactopyranoside (ONPG) and 4–methylumbelliferyl–B–D–glucuronide (MUG), the enzyme produced by E. coli, the B–glucuronidase, will react on the ONPG substrate to form a yellow color. On the MUG substrate, it will form a florescent compound that will glow blue in ultraviolet light. These tests indicate the presence of coliform bacteria or E. coli, which in turn indicates human fecal matter present in the water.

How Clean is The Water? says in its test kit:

"Coliform bacteria are harmless bacteria which grow in human and animal intestines and therefore are found in their wastes. The presence of coliform bacteria is closely related to the presence of other very hardy bacteria and their presence is used to indicate the ability of other bacteria to survive in a sample of water.

"If there are a large number of coliform bacteria in the water, it suggests that other bacteria are likely to be present. If there are a very small number, it means that other bacteria are unlikely to be present in significant number. The Public Health Service requires that the coliform count (number of bacteria) in drinking water be less than one bacteria in a 100 milliliter (ml) sample."

The authors of Microbiology point out that "One coliform colony per 100 ml = satisfactory"; and "Four coliform colonies per 100 ml = unsatisfactory."

Note this…Tortora et al. continue by writing:

"Coliforms have been very useful as indicator organisms in water

sanitation, but they have limitations. One problem has been the growth of coliform bacteria in biofilms on the inner surfaces of water pipes." Consequently, many communities have alerted citizens to boil their water, even though the coliform bacteria present in this biofilm weren't necessarily the result of fecal contamination, and they were probably not a public health threat.

These authors also point out that a far more serious problem than coliform biofilms is the presence in drinking water of certain pathogens that are resistant to chlorine and other treatment plant methods of disinfection. Worse, these pathogens, viruses and protozoan cysts, are becoming more and more resistant to chlorination. Thanks to better methods of detecting viruses, scientists have found that city–treated water that is free of coliform bacteria may be reeking with viruses common to the human gastrointestinal tract. The cysts of such protozoans as G. lamblia and Cryptosporidium must be filtered mechanically because they are so resistant to chlorination, it is almost impossible to eliminate them through normal treatment plant methods. The plants' regulation for potable water is to reduce, but often not eliminate Cryptosporidium. But note that this microorganism is so small—and this entails its difficult control—that 10,000 can fit on the period at this sentence's end. And that's the difficulty, they can pass through most filters.

Cryptosporidiosis, the disease caused by the protozoan Cryptosporidium parvum, is usually transmitted to humans when they drink water contaminated by animal wastes, cattle in particular. Because the cysts are resistant to chlorination, thousands of people may contract the disease before officials realize a water supply is contaminated and can issue the order to boil (we suggest filtering also) the water. Use Metronidazole (Flagyl) for amoebae and giardia, should it become necessary.

The trophozoite (vegetative form; able to take in nutrients) and the non–vegetative form (cyst) of Giardia lamblia and that too of Cryptosoridium parvum are probably both killed by boiling water; especially that of Cryptosporidium. In 1995, June 16, Friday, The Houston Chronicle writes:

"The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and the Environmental Protection Agency issued a report saying boiling water for a minute is the surest way to eliminate the chance of contracting cryptosporidium, which can cause severe diarrhea, nausea and stomach cramps."

However, there is no medicine that kills the Cryptosporidium. If on chemotherapeutic drugs, one is generally taken off of them and given supportive treatment as healing takes place. Also, malnourished persons should be given a nourishing diet. We suggest taking coconut oil as the Thais do, with the probiotic, PB 8.

Coconut Oil:

In 1950 a Cornell University group investigated Thailand and their food habits. It appears that a protective factor in the Thai diet (and should be ours, too) that kills pathogenic bacteria in the intestines and also kills parasites, viruses, and yeast, is the use of coconut oil there, as concluded in The Journal of The Price–Pottenger Nutrition Foundation (619–574–7763), winter 1998.

In Thailand, the peasants drink raw river water; also that from canals, streams, and other unpurified water sources too—and they don't seem to get sick from waterborne illnesses. They don't even boil it in many cases; nor do they filter out the sediment. This is the same canals, rivers, streams, and so forth that their animals use for drinking and wallowing in. Their kids swim and play in it. The Nutrition Foundation's Journal (www.price–pottenger.org), Health & Healing Wisdom, Vol. 22, No. 4, p. 13, concludes, that coconut oil is the most protective factor in the Thai diet, since the oil contains nearly 50% of a 12–carbon saturated fat, lauric acid. The body converts this into mono–laurin, which effectively kills "parasites, yeast, viruses and pathogenic bacteria in the gut."

Drs. Brocato and King would not chance the immediate above. But, it is advisable to know the information, just in case. Therefore, be on coconut oil.

The Thais also practice fermenting meats and pork, which kills the earliest stages of trichinosis organism, larvae. Fermented milks, and other foods develop large amounts of healthy bacteria that help keep pathogenic organisms in check. This may be a major source of their health from waterborne diseases, competitive inhibition of pathogenic microorganisms in their diet.

Scenario for Obtaining Clean Water:

▪	Draw the water. Approximately 1 gallon plus.

▪	If debris (shrubs, leaves, mud, etc) is present, filter into another container through a cloth or two.

▪	Aeration: The process by which raw water is brought into close contact with the air for removal of gasses from the water to the air, and placing oxygen into the water for oxidation of reduced substances such as iron, manganese, and sulfides. When you remove hydrogen sulfide you will improve taste and odor in ground and surface waters. Aeration (and stripping) removes Volatile Organic Chemicals (VOCs), Synthetic Organic Chemicals (SOCs), Pesticides, Trihalomethanes (THMs), and THM precursors from poor to excellent. Thus, you want to also employ coagulation (flocculation), sedimentation, and filtration in your home water purification process and finally, distillation followed with adsorption (using activated carbon).

Aeration also encourages the growth of aerobic bacteria and other microorganisms that facilitate the removal of dissolved organic matter to carbon dioxide and water. The resulting sludge is allowed to settle out, removed; then, coagulate the raw water with alum. However, in the home water treatment system we give, we simply omit the primary sludge removal and proceed with adding alum; then sedimentation and filtration to remove the sludge, followed with distillation and activated charcoal filtration. We give the procedure as follows:

Method A—Spray Aeration:

Place the filtered water in a clean, never used for chemical

spraying, stainless steel 1 – 2 gallon garden sprayer. Pump up and spray this water once or more with a 4 – 6 foot spray upward at a large inclined angle into the sunny air, allowing it to fall into a clean, plastic wading pool. You have just aerated your water—as much as possible, without knowing Henry's Law and Mass Transfer, or having special equipment, nozzle sizes, and so forth. It is the best we can do under the harsh circumstances coming.

Method B—Incline Cascade Aeration:

This is the method the authors call the Washboard effect of aeration. This method is simpler and easier for most women to use. You want a surface at an incline plane at 60 to 90 degrees. The surface must have a transversely corrugated face or surface, 1 inch in diameter, and a sinusoidal surface.

This is simply a ridge and trough that alternates from ridge to trough. The easiest way to build this is simply to get standard fiberglass corrugated, semicircular, 1 inch in diameter, and sinusoidal (alternate ridge-trough) section(s) for sun roofs. Get one 8' 1" x 26" w and one 5' 1" x 26" w.

Cut it every 2' (24–in) down the length—use tin snip scissors. Turn it 90 degrees and nail or glue the cut pieces to your incline, so there is a continuous Washboard Effect down the incline surface, taking care to assure that each cut section overlaps the preceding section down the incline. You want it at least 8 to 16 ft long and 2 ft wide. We made ours 8 ft long and 2 ft wide. The research test board was 16 ft long by 2 ft wide.

Pour the gallon plus water slowly down the fiberglass ridge and trough incline. Collect in a large baking pan or wader pool. Repeat this several times.

Utilizing one of the immediate above methods, you have vaporized volatile organic chemicals (VOC); removed carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide from water, to the air; and added oxygen to the water for removal of iron and manganese, to be removed through coagulation (flocculation) and/or sedimentation, under home–made conditions; thus, removing a strain on your activated charcoal filter. You have also removed a considerable amount of odors, and possibly killed numerous micro–organisms. Under a municipal, professional system with adjusted pH, etc., even then, they do not get all of the VOCs.

Unless you have the time, money, and expertise to own and identify organic compounds in raw and finished waters by owning expensive nuclear magnetic resonance and mass spectrometry (spectrophotometer, an instrument that measures the degree of turbidity) instruments as well as gas–liquid chromatographic instruments too, then you do not know with certainty which contaminants are being removed by just one or two modalities from your water when you clarify.

Therefore, you should practice Aeration and Stripping, Coagulation (flocculation) Processes, Sedimentation, Filtration, Distillation, and Adsorption using Granular Activated Carbon, GAC. For none of these removes everything using them separately. By using a combination, one mode removes one or more things well; whereas, the other removes poorly, and vice–versa. The combination we have given here gives the best removal of contaminants that the average person can have access to. —Source: Hamann, C.L., Jr., et al., Chapter 3 in Water Quality and Treatment, 4th ed.

Pre-Treatment: Coagulation (flocculation) is an excellent pretreatment for activated carbon adsorption after aeration:

▪	Procedure For Coagulation (flocculation) Removal of Particulate Matter from Water:

1. Apply 97.2 mg of Alum (aluminum Sulfate [Al2(SO4)3]), all at once, to the filtered, aerated 1 gallon plus of raw water (97.2 mg Alum per 1.2 gal water).

2. Stir rapidly.

3. Allow to sit for 1 1/2 hours. Thirty minutes is satisfactory. A gelatinous material will form. If allowed to sit too long, re–stabilization of naturally occurring organic matter (NOM) will form. This means the destabilizing agent or coagulant, the precipitated aluminum bound to the NOMs, will start letting go and much NOMs will go back into solution with the water.

This procedure, coagulation (flocculation), is trapping various types of micro-organisms (bacteria, viruses, algae), organic matter, hydrous aluminum oxide, and "inorganic particles as clay, sand, or carbon, and such organics as color colloids, wastewater particulates…." Sources: Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2nd. Edition; The Home Water Supply. Excellent books to have in your library.

4. Pour through a cloth filter. Rinse the cloth in unpurified water with a little liquid bleach for next use. Hang in sunlight to dry. You may have to scrape off the sludge into your sewer system, or dispose in a pit and cover. Or,

filter through extra large coffee filters and discard properly. Get Alum at your local hardware store in the garden department.

"Many authors stress the significance and importance of pretreatment—especially chemical coagulation (flocculation)—for filtration processes. For example, it was concluded that 'Chemical pretreatment prior to filtration is more critical to success than the physical facilities at the plant.'" —Chemistry of Water Treatment.

Pretreatment increases (1) the life of the filter bed substance, in this case Activated Carbon. (2) Higher–molecular weight substances (macromolecules, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fats, nucleic acids) are adsorbed to a lesser degree than low–molecular–weight species onto activated carbon; thus, coagulation (flocculation) removes the macromolecules giving you a more purified water, and, (3) organic materials are removed by coagulation at the best pH range of 5 to 6. With such a pH, the adsorption using Granulated Activated Carbon of naturally occurring organic matter, NOMs, are more efficiently removed for your final water processing. Therefore, you may want to add a little vinegar (or vitamin C, or citric acid, or ReaLemon® juice) to the raw filtered water prior to coagulation (flocculation) with the alum.

Note: As the pH value increases from 0 to 14, the H+ concentration decreases. Thus, the higher the pH, the more basic the solution. The lower the pH, the more acidic the solution. Vinegar has a pH around 3; as does wine, soft drinks, beer and orange juice. You can also use vitamin C/Citric Acid.

▪	Treat with iodine, or chlorine (see above as to amount). Chlorine may be used if that is all you have. If the water is heavily polluted, use more iodine or chlorine. The sedimentation with Alum (coagulation) will have done much to remove turbidity (cloudiness) that is formed when organic matter (e.g., decaying plants), bacteria, silt, clay, and, especially, organic chemicals become suspended in water. Pathogens hide in the turbidity and avoid disinfection methods, for example, chlorine and iodine. The prior aeration will have facilitated sedimentation. If you use chlorine at this stage, then aerate again to remove volatile organic chemicals (VOCs), however, because you have removed most precursors that the chlorine could react with to form by–products through the coagulation stage, you should have very little by–product formation from your disinfection process. You could, thus, omit the aeration stage again if your technique was not sloppy.

Epidemiology 8: 615, 1997, pointed out that hospital admissions and emergency room visits accounted for approximately 10% for children with gastrointestional (GI) illness. Even though the turbidity was below legal limits and not visible at the tap, GI disturbances increased when, in the city of Philadelphia, in 1993, drinking water turbidity increased. Also, after the sharp rises in turbidity, ten days later, the elderly presented with GI distress.—J. Epidem. Comm. Health 54: 45, 2000.

Joel Schwartz of Harvard School of Public Health, leader of both studies, says, "These and other studies suggest that ten percent of gastrointestinal illnesses in children and the elderly may be due to turbidity in ordinary tap water at levels that pass federal standards."

▪	Stir. Wait 20 or 30 minutes. We play it safe and wait 30

minutes.

▪	If time permits, allow, if any sediment is left, to settle

to the bottom of the pail; then,

▪	Pour into your distillation unit's boiling chamber, only the clear layer of water—not the sediment layer, if any has been left.

▪	Distill! We would then chlorinate the distilled water, 40 drops per gallon of 1% unscented bleach. Stir; let rest; then filter through GAC. See:

▪	Filter the distilled water through activated charcoal filter unit; or, one you devise safely with real Granulated Activated Charcoal.

You have made, as economically as possible, a simple, home–made, "municipal" water–treatment plant. Clean, pure water is going to become a very severe problem. Prepare now.

Making Your Own Activated Carbon Filter Unit.

Get The Following:

1.	Wash & Clean a # 10 size can, or a water tight plastic bucket,
or a 5 gallon container.

2.	Marineland Bonded Filter Pad (from local pet and aquarium
shop); or two Cheese Cloth, 100% cotton—approximately 126" x 36" packages; or several kitchen cup towels—we prefer the filter pads; but have the others too.

3.	3 – 6 pounds of Activated Charcoal or more (from local pet
and aquarium shop). Have plenty in reserve.

4.	Construction

•	Drill or hammer (with nail) holes into the bottom of the pail from outside to inside, not from inside pail to outside.

•	Put one layer thickness of filter pad on bottom of pail.

•	Place two to three inches (we prefer 4 – 5) of Activated Charcoal on this layer; then,

•	Lay another layer of filter pad on top of the Activated Charcoal.

Be sure and cut filter pad or cloth to edges of pail. Allow the Activated Charcoal to go all the way to the sides of the pail. This filtering device is to be used with distilled water only, using the E Still. Pour the distilled water into the filtration device and collect.

The water conditions, as you have read, are getting so bad, and will increase, when things go down, such that you do not want to chance your water to anything less.

Use the above filtering device for about 30 to 50 gallons of water; then just remove everything and rinse the charcoal well, and boil for 5 to 10 minutes to reactivate the carbon. Wash other items in hot sudsy, chlorine or iodine water; rinse well.

However, be advised that activated charcoal filters are not totally effective in removing chemical pollution from water, but many health authorities, at state and local levels, point out that activated charcoal filters are one of the best solutions available.

Activated charcoal does, however, filter out chemicals that are not dissolved very well in the water, another reason you want a distillation unit. It leaves those chemicals behind since they are not caught up in the vaporization. But for those who do not get a distillation unit, then know that poorly dissolved chemicals in the water will cling to the surface, or adsorb to the activated carbon (charcoal). Just one ounce of activated carbon will adsorb on its surface area an incredible square mile of chemicals dissolved and not dissolved so very well in the water.

So, what's the problem? It is simply this: when the activated charcoal can not adsorb or collect any more pollutants on its surface, they are no longer removed, and the toxins filter over into your water. This is when you replace the filter or boil it out. But, how do you know this?—the point is you don't. Rough estimates are good, per adsorbed area per gallon of water; but, here's the rub: what if more pollutants are coming over the tap than usual; the water from a clarified mountain stream is carrying more pollutants than usual—then, your filter will clog faster. And you won't know it any faster, either.

The Solution:

You have to test your filtered water with a home test kit!…and this must be done regularly, something infrequently done, and more often than not, FORGOTTEN. Many survival preparedness symposias are not telling the attendants this...you can only guess why. If it's tap water and it's supposed to be chlorinated, and you test it and chlorine tests positive; that is, chlorine shows to be in the water, then it's time to change out your activated charcoal filter or boil or steam it out for 5 minutes. Then, test again. This will also tell you how well your boiling method is working.

If you test the Activated Carbon Unit, and find that boiling for 5 minutes or more did not reactivate the unit; then the exhausted carbon should be replaced by virgin carbon (GAC).

If you are using untreated water for any length of time with your activated carbon filter and you have not been chlorinating it, then chlorinate it—especially if you are using the E Still; then filter it through your activated charcoal (carbon) bearing unit. Test the filtrate for chlorine. If it tests positive, then you know it is time to change or boil out your activated carbon filter.

Note: With the E Still or any other distillation unit, many will not see the need to be extra cautious and treat the water with disinfectants first, prior to distilling. You need to do so for this simple test.

Again, treat with chlorine; then test the distilled or filtrated water for chlorine content. If chlorine is present in a small amount, then you need to change out your filter as given in this discourse.

Remember! An activated charcoal filter may still be removing taste, odor, as well as turbidity (cloudiness) from your treated water, but it may no longer be removing chemical pollutants. The chlorine test should be a fairly good indicator; better yet, get the water chemical test kits given above and feel more comfortable. Boiling will not reactivate the charcoal for chemicals unless you can fire the charcoal in a furnace, in the absence of air between 500 to 900 degrees C, though one source says you can reactivate theirs for a number of boilings only. Have extra virgin activated charcoal about.

Odors and Tastes:

The earth–musty smell in water supplies, as well as in your stored water, can be improved by pouring from one container to another several times; or, run it through an activated carbon filter. The causative agents for this odor are Geosmin and 2–methylisoborneol (MIB).

They are strongly adsorbed to the activated carbon (charcoal). The odors are caused by the filamentous bacteria, Actinomycetes and algae, especially the blue–green algae (the cyanobacteria) and flagellates.

In addition to the tastes and odor problems of actinomycetes and algae, odors are produced by these biological sources as well as protozoans, fungi, and water borne microbiota. Taste and odors range from hay–like, manure–like, geranium–like, woody, earthy, and musty. The organoleptic (color, turbidity, and odor sensations) qualities of potable water can be improved through aeration, coagulation, sedimentation, filtration, adsorption and oxidation (use of chlorine) measures.

Additionally, The Chemistry of Water Treatment, 2nd. Edition, authors Faust and Aly say, "The principal volatile odorous compound in many groundwaters is hydrogen sulfide gas, which imparts a characteristic rotten egg smell." Use the above measures to remove odors and improve taste. We suggest those modalities followed by distillation with activated carbon (charcoal).

Strong psycho–dynamic emotions, positive and negative, can be elicited by odors and tastes. You want good, clean potable (drinkable) water.

Also, stored water, especially boiled water has a characteristic taste of "flatness." This off taste is due largely to the fact that air, which was dissolved in the water, has been expelled. The tiny bubbles you see rise when you first begin the boiling process is due to the fact that as the temperature rises, dissolved air in the water becomes less soluble. And when the air is driven off, less oxygen is present. This is becoming a real problem in our lakes.

As our water resources become thermally polluted with rising temperatures, this indicates less oxygen is dissolved in rivers, streams, and lakes. The end result is a drastic reduction of plant and fish life in the water. Raising a lake's temperature from 200 to 400 C reduces the dissolved oxygen (by weight) from 9 to 6 ppm.

If some event causes impure water to come out of the tap and you are told to boil it, then you know that aerating the boiled water will improve the taste. You can use a fish pump aerator; a clean tube attached to a gentle air pump; or just pour cool boiled water from one bucket to another a number of times to help restore the taste. However, it has recently been shown this may not work in all cases.

If You Miss Out on Getting a Distillation Unit:

If you don't have a distillation unit, add for the first layer, on the hole–drilled bottom of the pail, pebbles, 3–4 inches thick. Place layer of cloth, on top of this to the edges of the container, and then place 3–4 inches activated charcoal on top of that.

Place another cloth to the edges of the container; following on top of the cloth, purified sand, crumbled up clay, or Fuller's Earth, 4–5 inches thick. Lay another cloth on top of this and you should be ready for filtering water. Always purify raw water (chlorine/iodine—see above) before pouring the water through the Filtration Unit. If there is a nuclear attack, then use the iodine after filtering, if you have not gotten Potassium Iodide tablets for such an occurrence. Always remove as much debris as possible first. Then, if time permits, let as much turbidity settle to the bottom overnight, and then use only the clearer water for treating chemically and filtering. Use the Aeration and Coagulation (flocculation) with Alum procedure given above.

Note 1:

In the natural environment, few hydrologists disagree, that water must pass through 10 feet of earth or more before it can be considered clarified (cleared of turbidity) and "completely filtered."

These two things are important for pure water. Yet, we attempt to be imitators of natural filtration. The best filtration is when water is not forced through the filter, and thus, does not exceed the filter's ability to remove harmful substances.

Never hurry water through your filtering devices, because purity may be sacrificed. The best filtered water is that at which water takes its time winding, curving, and taking its time through the strata—whether it be man–made or nature–made.

Note 2:

Disinfection (water made free of living things, microbes and viruses). Conditioned water is water that is treated to remove minerals, chemicals, and things not alive. Clarified water is made free of suspended matter.

When using chlorine, iodine, silver, ultraviolet light, or ozonization, remove turbidity (soil particles carried or suspended in water—one speck of soil can carry millions of microorganisms).

Then, decrease the pH by adding vinegar to the water to be purified, and if possible—a thing that may be impossible, if fuel is in short shrift, and/or you live in the north—increase the temperature of the water to be treated. The reasons: when you decrease the pH (making the solution more acid), and increase the temperature—chlorine, iodine, etc. gives much better disinfection. Add disinfectants for 20 – 30 minutes. Pour through filtering unit of clay, sand (get 50 lb sack "filter sand" in the swimming pool supply section at Home Depot), activated charcoal, pebbles, etc. Always remember to test your filter by testing the water.

Note 3: Chlorination Language

1. Chlorine Demand: When chlorine combines with organic matter, that amount of chlorine is used up—it will not disinfect. It does form substances called trihalomethanes with the link–up to organic matter. They increase cancer risk.

2. Combined Chlorine Residual: This is the amount of free chlorine that is left over not bound with organic matter, but combines with any nitrogen present in the water as in surface water or ponds; also, any dead, decomposing body in the water giving off ammonia nitrogen to the water, is bound with the chlorine left over from the Chlorine Demand. This, then, is called Combined Chlorine Residual and is not very effective in disinfecting, according to The Home Water Supply; but The Chemistry of Water Treatment says chloramines are formed and they do a creditable job of disinfecting. Iodine does not react with ammonia in the water.

3. Chlorine Residual: This is what you are after; free chlorine. It is this that is left over, if enough was used, from Chlorine Demand, and Combined Chlorine Residual, that has the killing power for germs, etc., in treating your water.

4. Chlorine is not effective when its pH reaches 8 or more; iodine goes to pH 10 before it is no longer effective in killing micro–organisms.

Note 4: Aluminum

The concern for aluminum residuals in your treated water occurring naturally in raw source waters, or by way of coagulation with Alum for turbidity may be of interest to individuals reading this page. The Chemistry of Water Treatment says: "Questions have been asked about the human health implications of elevated levels of aluminum in drinking water that may affect persons with Alzheimer's disease and dialysis patients. However, no conclusions have been reached, to date, about this health concern." Still, your authors advise prudent avoidance.

We feel, however, there may be some association with aluminum and one's health. Thus, from our studies, it appears that distillation may be very effective in this contaminant removal, then followed by filtration with granular activated carbon (GAC). Yet, the data concerning aluminum removal by GAC is either not applicable or insufficient at this time.

Note 5: Colloidal Silver

After you have constructed your own charcoal filter, pour enough colloidal silver through the filter container to saturate the charcoal for the silver to adhere and provide residual disinfection of the filter.

Cleaning Your Boiling Distillation Tank:

After each use, the distillation boiler tank will, if a small amount of water is not left in the tank, develop heavy "boiler scale." It will be hard to clean without scouring, scraping, or scrubbing.

Even with some water left in the tank, which reduces some of the scale, you will still have an onerous cleaning job. You don't need this, nor want this at a time when you are thinking about surviving.

Therefore, get plenty of regular household vinegar using water with it. Simply mix the two, and your cleaning will be relatively easy. Any vinegar type product will work or use powdered vitamin C with water. Citric Acid may be used instead if you can and have it on hand. Also get at the same time you buy vinegar, an assortment of bottle cleaning brushes to clean the distillation spout. Any chlorides not thoroughly cleansed from the distillation unit can cause corrosion.

Filtration Systems:

The problem on just using Filtration Systems is that as the water passes through the activated carbon, silver (better units—and more costly—employ silver to kill over 650 microorganisms), and or ceramic, they may not be effective in reducing contaminants like copper, lead, nitrates, parasites, sodium, sulfates, arsenic, and volatile organic compounds. Also, as they are used—the cheaper ones—they become a breeding ground for bacteria when organic matter decomposes (rots) which stays in the filter.

These types of inexpensive systems do not, according to our information, remove radioactive contaminants, whereas, distillation does. Also, a good distillation system removes water from the contaminating substances as opposed to removing contaminants from the water.

Activated charcoal filters act like a magnet to pull most chemicals, many organic compounds, and heavy metals, as well as chlorine and fluorine from the water. Distillation does more. Combined with a carbon filter, you receive the best of both worlds. If you have an inexpensive water filtration unit that does not have iodine and/or silver in the filter, but just carbon, then you need to kill the bacteria that is removed from the water you are treating and left in your filter that will make you sick.

For this problem, we suggest a few drops of iodine, see above (We like the iodine from iodine crystals). But, if you have distilled your water, that should eliminate the need for iodine.

Also, by using just the filtration units, then the filters lose effectiveness with use. Many are equipped with an indicator as when to change the filtering unit. We don't feel comfortable with this, though it is a rough measure to have on hand. As usage occurs, if you don't have an indicator to its life extent, then more and more contaminants are passed through to your "filtered" water and you are not aware of it. This occurs when the capacity for adsorption has been reached.

Nevertheless, you will still need to boil the activated charcoal filter to remove adsorbed particles, and, kill any bacteria on them, if you are just using a water filtration pitcher unit, even though the tap water is not suspicious. The carbon rods eventually serve as a breeding ground, as given earlier, for bacterial growth.

If The Electricity Stays Up… Don't Count on It…

We have also found, if the electricity stays up in a terrorist attack using a suitcase nuclear device, a unit called the Waterwise® Model 9000 counter-top distiller. (Aside: I would still get the E Still and the Brita® and/or Pur® water filtration units just in case.) But, this unit, needing electricity, combines distilling and a "coconut shell carbon filter, which adsorbs volatile organic compounds." This unit is stainless steel and does have an activated carbon post filter. It also has a venting system (see above): "Low boiling light gases are discharged through the gaseous vent." If the electricity is intermittent, run this thing night and day during the on sessions and store the water. For cost and more information, call 1–800–211–8562; Monday–Friday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., ET; ask for Code #U31161.

Another, more sophisticated unit, we think better than the Waterwise unit is the Rain Crystal Water Still. This, if you can afford it, is probably the top of the line and doesn't need a carbon filter, though we advise to use one. They write:

1. "Removes volatile organic compounds automatically.

2. Produces laboratory grade distilled water.

3. Economical, costs less than other water stills.

4. Automatic, hooks to a faucet and runs unattended.

5. 1 year warranty."

Order from: The Lab Mart®. J. & H. Berge, Inc. 1–800–684–1234. Cat. No. H320550.

And, since you probably don't count on the electricity staying up under such circumstances, then we have found a very excellent, out of the ordinary, gravity water filtration unit that appears to do similar to a distillation unit…hmmmm. It is called the High Capacity Water Filter. Reading about it is very impressive, and we are tempted to get one because there may be a fuel shortage to areas struck by terrorists, or a third world war begins.

One feature we definitely like is that the filters are reusable. The literature says that after 8,000 gallons of chlorine–treated water, boil them in water (filtered) for 5 minutes. The filter units are "silver–impregnated to prevent bacterial growth in the unit itself (a real danger in the mass–marketed store water filters!)." However, this should be no problem with regular store bought units if the filters contain iodine in some form or other (crystals) in them. The units make 30 gallons per day without electricity and uses 9.5 quarts per filling, the literature says. Call 1–800–528–0559.

Considerations For Those With Well–Water:

For the past several years, Helicobacter pylori has been indicated in a whole series of gastrointestinal trouble from ulcers, inflammation of the stomach, and even cancer. A little known fact is that half of all persons have H. pylori that automatically invades and lives in their intestinal tract. Obviously, these people are more prone to the disease it brings about.

Recent evidence from Scotland now points to still another foci or central point of activity to infect us. It's our water system! That's right, even with chlorination, it has now been shown by researchers that live H. pylori live in the biofilm in our water pipes and the chlorine gets used up in destroying the top layer of the bacteria in the pipes, but does not touch the germs living in the deeper biofilm.

It is these deeper layers that don't get the chlorine treatment and when the water is moved through the pipes in our homes and elsewhere, the deeper clumps in the biofilm, small or large, get washed into our drinking water at the faucet.

The same process has now surfaced for well-water that has not been chlorinated and may be even worse! Many are digging wells, feeling secure in their efforts, while they are being undermined by pollution and H. pylori and don't even know it, until it is too late. If you're suffering from gastrointestinal problems or not… Get the distillation unit.

Gasoline and Other Associated Chemicals in Your Well–Water

"Gasoline is spilled regularly, and seems to find its way into a nearby water source quickly." —Domestic Water Treatment.

In The Home Water Supply, author Stu Campbell points out that as far back as 1983, one person started pumping gasoline from his deep well. Getting all that free gasoline was fine, but he really wanted and needed water.

Campbell further points out the following: "Any well, in fact, penetrates the protective seal of a groundwater source, and may offer a route for surface water to seep, unfiltered, into the earth. Too little effort is made to keep casings and spring boxes impervious to contaminating water from outside. Six hundred previously good wells around New York City have been closed in recent years because they've become hopelessly polluted. Where we tend to cluster, we tend to foul our water supply."

Water Testing…and others have said similar over the years

The Ruff Times, August 9, 1999, enclosed a document that says, "Think testing is your answer? Guess again. Because even if you go to the trouble of having your water tested, the most you can hope for is temporary peace of mind. Whether you're dealing with private well water or city water, the quality can change dramatically over even short periods of time. And at an average cost of $89.00 each, testing is not only very expensive…it does absolutely nothing to solve your problem."

The problem intensifies: The Houston Chronicle, Tuesday, July 27, 1999, points out in banner bold type: 'Panel to urge reduced use of MTBE. Policy reversed on gasoline additive.'

The content of the article is about the gasoline additive, methyl tertiary butyl ether (MTBE), now finding its way into water supplies in "all or part of Texas, California, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Maryland, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Virginia and Wisconsin." Arizona's water supplies also claim the additive.

This has made the local and national radio and TV news for several days at that time. Even Pat Roberson of The 700 Club TV program has been talking about this. In the early Church, and more recently, God told His Saints, Nature will turn against you.

"Federal research shows that the compound causes tumors in rats and may do so in humans. A University of California study showed that the additive has affected at least 10,000 ground water sites throughout California," the newspaper article said.

And we would not be surprised that most well water and tap water tested, does not include total THAs, pesticides, herbicides, and the latest chemical additive spills that pollute ground water (aquifers, wells, etc.). We hope water testing labs not only test for microbia; but, have the expensive nuclear magnetic resonance, mass spectrometry instruments, as well as gas–liquid chromatographic instruments, and use them all in the water testing procedures.

"The panel," the Chronicle continues, "found that MTBE molecules travel unusually fast through soil and into ground water once gasoline gets into the environment." In other words, gasoline is spilled everywhere; not only does it pollute—when spilled, but the report specifically designates MTBE is carried into the ground water supply. And you can be certain, gasoline is carrying it there and showing up too in many places, though the report did not mention this.

The levels of MTBE found were in trace amounts of "5 to 10

percent of the drinking water in areas where reformulated gasoline is sold. While those levels themselves pose no health concerns, the panel felt they were a strong enough signal that widespread use of MTBE could pose a future threat to the drinking water supply." Folks, you just don't want any amount of this crap in your water. You want pure, clean, drinking water. MTBE has the flavor and odor of turpentine in drinking water.

Reformulated gasoline is gasoline that has this additive, MTBE, at one time highly touted to reduce air pollution from automotive vehicles, and required by the Environmental Protection Agency in most or all 16 states where used. We've achieved gains in clean air, but at what price to our ground water supply?

Doug Marsano of the American Water Works Association, based in Denver, says the chemical can be found in all 50 states in varying quantities in water supplies.

The European Problem

Europe not only has our problem, but, still another. They not only have to worry about polluted clouds, ground water, and waste with chemical pesticides that mimic estrogen, leading to an increase in breast cancer, among other health problems listed above; but, researchers have discovered drugs, now in the earth's rivers, streams, and oceans.

In fact, German scientists, specifically, have discovered the drug, clofibrate in the North Sea area. Evidently, the Europeans are taking this cholesterol–lowering drug en masse, such that it is excreted in their urine and feces. It goes into the sewage systems and apparently is contaminating that part of the world's ocean. It has not yet been determined what effects this has on the aquatic life in the ocean there. We now have even more effective drugs available, and undoubtedly, it too is in drinking water.

Many in America are taking confidence in their wells, springs, and aquifers that their water is going to always be pure. Sorry folks, that ain't the case any more! You've read the facts and we suggest you invest in an E Still. Also, your authors strongly suggest Iodine crystals. Our sewer systems across America are breaking down and spewing periodically into our drinking water, such microbes as E. Coli, viruses, intestinal worms (helminths), along with parasites. Most stricken with the sanitary–sewer overflows suffer intestinal cramps and diarrhea. Untreated sewage can spread "cholera and infectious hepatitis," according to a June 12, 2000, U.S. News & World Report.

Chlorine is fine for chemical/biological warfare; iodine is dandier for water purification. The only problem—it leaves an iodine taste. But this is easily solved by getting "Iodine Purification Neutralizing Tablets." If you think that you are one of those that will find the taste of iodine in your drinking water objectional, then order the tablets from NITRO-PAK (1–888–866–4876). These are also excellent for water treated with filters using iodine.

Chlorine treated water offers no protection against pesticides, or herbicides; but does for some to many viruses, depending upon the chlorination (simple to Superchlorination). It does offer protection against bacteria. Nor does chlorine protect against volatile (evaporated) organic chemical compounds. Only a still fitted with a carbon filter will do that; or, you can just distill the water, then filter through a Pur® water filtration pitcher, found at most pharmacies, supermarkets, etc. The Brita® works fine also.

Iodine kills bacteria and viruses; but does not remove volatile chemical compounds found in the water. Some filters remove non-bacterial contaminants, such as lead, copper, nitrates, parasites, sulfates, some sodium, and so forth. Distilling does, but, recall, does not remove the organic dissolved pesticides from your water; use an activated carbon filter after you have distilled the water from whatever source.

However, be advised: If you are using only a water filtration pitcher, you must treat the water with chlorine or iodine, if it is possibly contaminated, whether from your kitchen tap, well, or the ditch out front. Your best bet is distillation; then filtration. Remember, the inexpensive store bought units are designed to be used with clean water only. If the water is suspect—then treat first with chlorine or iodine; wait 20 – 30 minutes, then pour through your inexpensive water filtration pitcher.

The Problem With Chlorine

The problem with chlorine is that it reacts with precursors to form trihalomethanes (THMs), and numerous other by–products from chlorine disinfection. The THMs, as the pesticides, have been directly linked to increased cancer risk and rates (See Epidemiology 99; 10:23-237). Heavy chlorination (Superchlorination), also, according to an EPA study released in December 1980, links cancer risk to the colon, bladder, and intestines. We now have ground water pollution, cloud pollution, well water, and aquifers as well.

This is why we recommend using activated carbon (charcoal) prior to your final drinking water. It removes chlorine…fluorides too, among other things mentioned earlier. The June issue of Life Extension, 1999, page 11/12, says:

"American [sic] is experiencing a cancer epidemic that coincides with the introduction of billions of tons of chemicals…including chlorine-based chemicals that mimic estrogen—into the environment. Chlorine–based chemicals are ingredients in plastic wrap and baby toys, DDT and 'Agent Orange.'

"Most people believe that because DDT has been banned (in America), it has disappeared. It has not. Millions of tons of it are served up on America's dinner plates every year in beef and produce from South America, Mexico and other countries where the pesticide is still legal.

"Chlorine-based chemicals have been implicated in the dramatic rise of breast and prostate cancer in the U.S. African–Americans are particularly hard-hit by prostate cancer, with an astounding 3% increase between 1992 and 1995. Prostate cancer is striking at an earlier age. In 1992, the proportion of men under age 60 who contracted prostate cancer was 21.3%. Now it's 29.8%.

"Dioxin and other chlorine products [get that...dioxin is a chlorine product] have been implicated in the increase of prostate and breast cancer because they have the ability to mimic estrogen."

The hypochlorite ion in chlorine is used in our immune systems to destroy bacteria. It can damage healthy cells when left free as that left over from water purification. Flavone antioxidants, such as silymarin (milk thistle extract) help prevent this damage.

Many people have a water filtration pitcher or an attachment at their kitchen sinks to remove chlorine, but do not know that when taking a long, hot shower, their lungs are absorbing chlorine in the hot, steamy vapor. They also are breathing in other additives that have become vaporized in the water. According to William Campbell Douglass, MD, Editor–in–Chief, Second Opinion: "During just one 10–minute shower, you can inhale MORE toxic chemicals than if you drank 2 liters of water. Bleeeecccch!"

Chlorine reacts with numerous substances to form by–products. We don't know what they all do, but many form carcinogenic products. A host of other by–products are formed that your authors don't know what they all do. —But, they can't be good for you, and hydrologists at municipal water plants try to reduce them to low levels or none at all, per the United States Public Health Service (USPHS) and the American Association of Metropolitan Water Agencies (AMWA) recommendations.

Two Ways To Control Chlorine By-Products

a.	Don't use chlorine; or,

b.	Reduce or remove the precursors for chlorine by–product
formation.

Since (a) is not the most practical, and chlorine is a very good disinfectant, inexpensive, and used practically world–wide, the second option (b) is the one generally applied.

When chlorine is used for disinfection processes, numerous organic compounds or by–products are produced, including: chloroform, chloral hydrate (knock-out drops), formaldehyde (embalming fluid/preservative), and acetaldehyde.

The main sources of precursors for chlorine to react with appear to be from natural ones; they are not the only ones, however. They are:

•	Naturally occurring organic matter yielding the humic and fulvic acid materials which are naturally occurring organic color molecules. They react with chlorine to give dichloro– and trichloroacetic acids.

•	Other substances, such as ammonia (NH3) from natural background organic material. This, however, can go to form monochloramines and dichloramines, a good disinfectant; yet, adding chlorine to your finished waters.

•	Algae (chlorination with green, blue-green, and diatom algae produced chloroform, CHCL3).

•	The amino acids of aspartic acid, tyrosine, and tryptophan—all naturally occurring in various microorganisms and natural organic matter. These amino acids form chloroform, dichloroacetonile, and chloral hydrate, by–products of chlorination.

•	Rivers, lakes, and drainage waters from agricultural irrigations and fertilizing as well as homeowners using similar treatments for home gardening and weed killing.

From the above, you can see that after distillation you can add chlorine and aerate as given earlier, or if you were careful and did not use sloppy technique under the first aeration and coagulation, then you can add the chlorine, wait 30 minutes, and distill. Because you have removed most precursors that the chlorine could react with to form by–products, you should have very little by–product formation from your disinfection process.

Any chlorine residual should be removed by the Granular Activated Carbon (GAC).

Things To Get

▪	A water distillation unit that works without electricity.

▪	Water Filtration Pitcher(s) with extra carbon rods (aka
carbon–post filter).

▪	Plastic or stainless steel screen for home-made filters.

▪	Alum (Aluminum Sulfate [Al2(SO4)3]); as a coagulant, and others as given in Part III, for organic matter in purifying water in the Sedimentation stage.

▪	Wading Pool

▪	Stainless Steel Garden Sprayer, 1 – 2 gallon.

▪	Vinegar, Vitamin C (powdered), and Citric Acid (for adjusting pH).

▪	Cloth(s).

▪	Coffee Filters (large) or cheese cloth, etc. (for use with kitchen sieve,
etc. Lay filter, etc. in sieve; place 3 inches of Activated Carbon;
filter distilled water through; or, use water filtration pitcher).
You should consider getting unbleached coffee filters. Dioxin,
an organochlorine byproduct of chlorine bleach, produced in
the manufacturing of bleached paper, is considered to be the
single most cancer causing substance known to modern science.
Every time you make coffee, etc, using a bleached filter, you
get 40 – 70 percent dioxin in your beverage. It is also found
in cartons of milk made from paper. This too, leaches into your
milk. Incidently your dishwasher also pollutes your indoor
environment by aerosolizing through its heating and spraying
actions. Tap water contains many potential toxic organic
chemicals from chlorination and chlorine byproduct formation.

The modern home automatic dishwashers, because of their
venting system releases 5 to 7 liters of air to your kitchen,
containing volatilized compounds and pollutants that begin
circulating quickly in your tightly sealed home. Many of the
detergents used in dishwashers contain chlorine. Chlorine reacts with organic substances in the form of food particulates (food
scraps) to form trihalomethanes and other potentially toxic
compounds. Get unbleached filters from natural food stores.

▪	Stainless Steel or plastic bucket with 3/8 to 1–inch holes drilled
in the bottom. Additionally, you may add a filter on bottom.

▪	Marineland Bonded Filter Pad (from local pet and aquarium
shop); or two Cheese Cloth, 100% cotton— approximately 126"
x 36" packages.

▪	Purified sand (get 50 lb sack "filter sand" in the swimming

pool supply section at Home Depot) and/or clay. To purify;
bake in the oven, while you can, to 350 – 400 degrees F, for
4 – 5 hours. Or, you can place the sand in a clean sock(s)
and boil for 20 – 30 minutes. Clay will come apart.

▪	Pebbles. Get 4 – 5 lbs or more. Use according to previous
instructions. Purify by boiling in water for 20 – 30 minutes.

▪	Activated Carbon. We got ours from a local pet and aquarium
supply shop. We suggest you get at least two units, 7.5 lbs:
Professional Grade Activated Carbon, Net Wt: 60 oz. (3.75
pounds/1698 grams) Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.

Warning:

There are some books out there, and various magazines—I just read one—that tell you that you can get your charcoal from your camp fire or by burning wood. By now, you know this is in error.

Worse, the authors contend that you can take the ashes of the camp fire and pour your clarified water through there for final cleansing and detoxification; then it is potable, that is to say, d–r–i–n–k–a–b–l–e.

Yet, under soap making in the book(s) or quarterly magazines, they say to take wood ashes and/or the small charcoal pieces from your fire and pour water through it to get caustic soda and caustic Potash, respectively, "Lye," sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide! —so necessary to mix with fat for saponification (soap–making) to occur.

The two ideas are incongruous. Ashes from your charcoal campfire for water purification and ashes from a campfire to get caustic Potash. If you follow that advice, you are going to burn out your voice box, throat, mucus membranes, and stomach before you die. Oh… you might make a little soap in the process and shaving soap too, from your own fat, just before your demise. We don't advise to use charcoal briquettes (wood charcoal) either.

▪	Swimming Pool cover: Tarp or Water–Proof Canvas, if you
own a swimming pool. Most water is lost from bodies of water
through evaporation; even in enclosed containers if not
hermetically sealed. The tarp will slow down evaporation
considerably, however, it will not stop it.

Commentary

If you are concerned with background organic matter (BOM) reacting with chlorine and forming deleterious products, consider the following: If terrorists attack infrastructures such as water utilities, electric power plants, and sanitation or waste units, refugee diseases would probably crop up, such as typhoid, cholera, and amebic dysentery, in addition to other sicknesses. And if a number of cities, or even just one city, has its water supply attacked, this could effectively put that city back to third world status in terms of its sanitation. Chlorination would be the most effective and inexpensive means to obtain potable (drinkable) water.

Science News, writes in the March 1, 2003, issue, p. 137, "…most researchers agree that any risk from chlorination byproducts over a lifetime of drinking treated water are more than compensated for in developing countries by the reduced risk of death from diarrheal diseases at an early age." Children are extremely vulnerable to this. If some means of quickly disinfecting water were not secured, the death rate for infants and children would skyrocket for that area hit.

Rita R. Colwell points out in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, Feb. 4, 2003, that infections from cholera can be reduced 48 percent by simply using a cloth to strain the water. Additionally, this removes much sediment and BOM from the water to be purified and thus necessitates less chlorine use. This method also reduces the amount of chlorine byproducts formed.

Boiling water also reduces pathogens in water, but if the infrastructure is hit hard, fuel may not be readily available and present a problem. Another way to render water potable that takes about 3 hours on a sunny hot day is to strain the water, then place it into clean clear bottles (clear soft–drink or water bottles), with one side painted black or dark, and leave out in the sunlight. This is solar disinfection using heat and ultraviolet radiation. The painted side improves heat absorption and the clear side aids ultraviolet rays to be absorbed. Water containing microbes can be treated this way, with people having less diarrhea.

Tips For Conserving Water

• Cook one pot complete meals. With a pressure cooker, you can cook it faster, sterilized, and more delicious all in one pot.

• Save cooking water for stews and soups.

• Take a Military shower. Wet your body. Turn the water off. Lather up with soap. Turn water on, rinse off. This also saves soap. As water keeps running, soap lather is rinsed off, requiring more soap usage. Hydrologists

agree, America as a whole tends to waste water.

Your authors have found that if you use dry detergent with low suds, you get a better wash. Too much sudsing interferes with the cleansing action of the small machine.

We have further found, due to our research in writing this book, Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda, sodium carbonate, gets clothes practically spotless! It is a basic substance, and the more basic, the better the cleansing action. It acts as a solvent for grease and softens hard water. Used with soaps, it increases the soap's effectiveness. It works very well in cold water, saving on precious fuel! We have further found, if soap is in short supply, the Washing Soda does a marvelous job by itself—it works best with a little soap.

Get plenty, you won't regret it.

Test Your Water IQ

In the '80s, various hydrologists and other scientists said that in 2000, there will be water shortages and rationing. Furthermore, in the early '80s and throughout, as water became more scarce, there were Supreme Court decisions concerning states' water rights. That is, one state would divert a major river from going to feed downstream another state. This has led to water fights between states. Colorado, California, and others have and are still having their problems in obtaining pure water…at least enough of it. Other states are eying others, as far away as two or three over, for their water. Aquifers are now being polluted.

We can expect on–going water fights as water becomes scarce, reminiscent of the frontier's range and water rights wars. Learn now as to what you can do to obtain pure, clean water—you're gonna need it!

The main source of water pollution in the U.S. is runoff from farm fields, roads, parking lots, and lawns. Most believe that the most common polluters of our waterways are factories. And others believe that garbage dumping is the main cause.

Worldwide, most childhood deaths are caused by microorganisms and other pollutants in water supplies. This is shocking to most people, who believe that starvation causes most childhood deaths. Source: Audubon; July – August 1999; page 18.

In a regular tube of toothpaste, the amount of fluoride is enough, some scientists contend, to kill a 25–pound child. However, the main advice being given: Don't depend on the computers at water plants to deliver accurate amounts of fluoride and/or chlorine if a terrorist cyber–attack is staged against utility plants. They may deliver too little, instead of too much, and YOUR water supply will not be purified.

What's One To Do? …Follow Your Nose…

If the water is smelling too strongly of chlorine—remember, you can't taste or smell fluoride—you can be pretty darn sure, "Houston, we have a problem." —Don't use it. On the other hand, if contamination occurs, you won't know until you come down pretty darn sick. Therefore, follow the advice given earlier on how to purify water and store a little water also. You never know when you may need it. Thus, be aware…

"You know how to interpret the appearance of the sky but you cannot interpret the Signs of the Times." —Mat. 16:3

As Given Throughout These Documents On Water,

You Should Practice:

A.	Aeration and Stripping,

B.	Coagulation (flocculation) Processes,

C.	Sedimentation,

D.	Filtration,

E.	Distillation, and Adsorption using Granular Activated Carbon, GAC.

As you follow the above list, incorporate the modalities given throughout this document for enhanced, pure, potable water, including what you have learned from Part I, Part II and Part III.

There Will be plenty of Sea Water Around—Distill! Then, apply chlorine drops; stir; wait; then, pour through a GAC!

Additional References:

1.	An Introduction To Chemistry for Biology Students, Sixth Edition, George I. Sackheim. Addison Wesley Longman, Inc.

2.	Basic Medical Biochemistry: A Clinical Approach, Marks, Marks, Smith. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

3.	Biochemistry ande Molecular Biology, Third Edition, Elliott & Elliott. Oxford University Press.

4.	Chemistry: The Unending Frontier, J. Arthur Campbell, Goodyear Publishing Company, Inc. Santa Monica, California.

5.	Cell and Molecular Biology: Concepts and Experiments, Gerald Karp. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. New York.

6.	Chemistry: The Molecular Science, Second Edition, Olmsted III and Williams. Wm. C. Brown Publishers.

7.	Dictionary of Geological Terms, Prepared under the direction of the American Geological Institute. Dolphin Books, Doubleday & Co., Inc.

8.	First–Year College Chemistry, John R. Lewis, Barnes & Noble, Inc. New York.

9.	Hawley's Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Fourteenth Edition, Richard J. Lewis Sr. Wiley Interscience, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

10.	Infectious Diseases Handbook, Including Antimicrobial Therapy & Diagnostic Tests/Procedures, 2nd Edition. Lexi-Comp's Clinical Reference Library.

11.	Instant Notes In Biochemistry, Hames, Hooper, Houghton. Bios Scientific Publishers

12.	Jacobs & DeMott Laboratory Test Handbook With Key Word Index: 5th Edition, Jacobs, Demott, Oxley. Lexi-Comps Clinical Reference Library.

13.	Modern Concepts In Biochemistry, Fourth Edition, Robert C. Bohinski, John Carroll University, Allyn & Bacon, Inc.

14.	Oxford Dictionary of Biochemistry & Molecular Biology, Oxford University Press.

15.	Oxford Dictionary of Science, Oxford University Press.

16.	Patty's Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology: Vol. III, Part B. 3rd. Edition.

Crally, Crally, and Bus. Wiley InterScience.

17.	Reviewing Chemistry, Maxwell Gelender, AMSCO School Publications, Inc.

18.	The Chemistry of Matter, James B. Pierce. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston.

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